Minor confession. I didn't feel particularly well disposed to walking another 28 miles to the nearest village today after my epic march yesterday. There are a few reasons for this, but the most pressing is, no town equals no money. I'm also on a bit of a schedule as I've got an appointment later this month elsewhere in India. Two unexpected days in Jaipur have put me behind somewhat. Using my legs alone in the time I have remaining, will be either a) torture (not much of a holiday) or b) fatal (not much of a holiday). So I decided to spend the last of my cash and catch a bus, saving two days travel and unaffordable accommodation in the process. Anyway, I wanted to try an Indian bus, and it's not like I'm on a crusade or being sponsored or anything, so get down off of my grill about it.
I'm not entirely sure what all the fuss is about really. Sure, it was beaten up, no air con, dirty, smelly, cramped, and I did feel as though I was going to die several times, but on the upside, it was cheap and it moved forwards faster than I could walk - occasionally. So it bounced and jiggled and beeped and burped its way onward until it, and I, finally reached Fatepur.
Did everyone else know, because I didn't, 'lovely jubbly' is an actual thing? The fact that 'I come from London' offers an easy opportunity to trot the phrase out, along with a smile and some reference to cricket, a sport that I have exactly 30 minutes spectator experience of. All conversations around cricket and the England team in particular, are short.
Who said 'money doesn't bring you happiness'? What a load of bollocks. I managed to change some currency(£50 - which sounds like a lot if you're Indian and get full value out of that, but I'm a tourist, so you can count that as about £25 at best) at a friendly bank today, find a can of out of date lager, and a new flavour of crisps for dinner. I'm about as happy as a dog with two dicks this evening.
In my survival pack I have many things, including a shoelace. I managed to make good use of this seemingly superfluous item, by stringing up my Mac charger and getting a charge from an awkwardly placed socket in my $8 hotel. I'm hacking a European plug into an Indian socket, so it the fitting is as loose as a 50 year old Cuban hooker.
She's a peach isn't she?
Some creative sparky work
HISTORICAL NOTE:
The siege of Kanpur. The mutiny of the 2nd Cavalry was quickly followed by the rest of the Native regiments stationed at Kanpur and the rebels spent the next few days looting, burning, and finally, marching towards Delhi to join their Meerut colleagues, before marching back again to Kanpur. The chief reason for their return was that Nana Sahib had decided to declare his hand and with the promise of reward for their efforts, the mutineers threw their lot in with the only real leader the Mutiny possessed in the area.
The Europeans had entrenched as best they could and waited for the next rebel move, or reinforcements, whichever came first. As it turned out, the now somewhat organised rebels moved arms and ammunition up from the magazine, and began raining iron destruction down on the leaguerd defenders. The barracks and houses that made up their refuge came under almost constant fire and casualties began to mount. Around 100 civilians were issued arms to aid the defence, but slowly the death toll rose.
A mass attack on the 11th June led by the 2nd Cavalry, failed after determined resistance eventually paid off, but the hospital could not be saved when its thatched roof caught alight two days later. Aside from the four killed by the blaze, almost every new casualty knew their chances of survival without medicine were now a lot slimmer. On 23rd June, with no shelter from the 120 degree heat, drawing well water a snipers delight, and no food to speak of, 250 remaining able bodies prepared to withstand a mass attack by 4000 Sepoys. After a furious defence, the attack failed, but it signaled the end. A day later, Nana sent a note offering honourable surrender and the garrison were no longer in any position to refuse.
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