Monday, 21 November 2016

Day 14 - The Road to Lucknow

Quick question. Can one actually live off peanuts? I mean, they're salty and you need that right? Plus that have fat in them, which isn't great but you need a bit of that too in moderation. Low in carbs aren't they? People say that's good. I'm going to give it a go and see what happens. I had a lime flavoured drink the other day, so I'm good for Vitamin C at least. 
Actually, the big problem is street food. Tons of it about, none of it worth the risk. Meat is simply not an option here. Not for the likes of me anyway. It just isn’t safe. Veggies are fine, but they’re all washed and prepared in the same water that contains all the bugs and nasties that you really don’t want to have in your tummy. Tourists are advised to 'go for 4/5 star restaurants in the decent parts of town', but I’ve been waaaaay out in the sticks where a restaurant, let alone a good restaurant, is impossible to find. The only options are to eat packet food or take a risk. Thusfar, I’ve avoided taking big risks, because I didn’t want to spare the time being unwell on a schedule, and give my gut a chance to acclimatise. I’m now far enough in that my stomach will have built up some resistance, plus, I’d really like to try some of the local cuisine. So I’ve slowly been getting more adventurous (aside from the trip to McD's). I've had a few curries in the towns along the way and they've been really great! I hope to remember some of their names at some point and share some culinary tips.
I am now in Lucknow. Having started off somewhere in the vicinity of Bani, a tired, dusty, foot sore and definitely shoulder sore, walker and amateur historian, picked up a ride just before the city limits. I won't describe my transportation, I think my mother has gone through enough of late. 
I've decided to treat myself to a properly nice hotel for a change. Unfortunately they only have a room for one night, but I could do with a decent bed and the expense... well I'll worry about the bill in the morning. 


Accommodation: Sublime

Food: Getting there

Walking: Done! 

My lovely lovely hotel

The Hindustan Ambassador (Morris Oxford in a previous life) was still being produced in India until 2014 and here in surprisingly generous numbers.

I don't think I'll ever pass these signs and not look twice. They're everywhere. Everyone should know, but I guess some reading this may not, Hitler stole this ancient religious symbol for his own. ...I'm pretty sure everyone does know that, I just want to clarify before anyone trolls me. 


HISTORICAL NOTE:

Havelock advanced on Lucknow with less than 1500 men all told and fought all the way up the road. His losses began to mount and on the 5th August, he sent word that he would need a further 1000 men in order to effect a relief to Neill to be forwarded to Canning in Calcutta. Neill poured scorn on his demands and this probably forced Havelock to reconsider, and continue his advance regardless. On the 10th and 18th August, and then on 5th September, the rebels made their second, third and forth grand assaults, again beaten back, but time was running short. The rebels knew that frontal attack wasn't the way, but famine and sickness would soon see the residency fall. 
Sir James Outram was given overall command of the Kanpur region and sought to aid Havelock but his reinforcements were some distance away. Havelock made two attempts to advance along the road to Lucknow, and was forced to turn back, regroup and have another go with dribs and drabs of reinforcements as they arrived on the scene. The trouble was, as hard as he and his men fought, the Sepoys proved his match, and he simply didn't have the resources to force entry into Lucknow. 
Sir James Outram arrived in Kanpur on 16th September with two regiments, the 5th Fusiliers and 90th, along with artillery support. In an unusual step for the time, Outram decided that Havelock had such a grip on the situation, he should retain command in the field and take credit for the relief effort, despite Outram outranking him. 
Now with 3179 men of all arms, on the 19th September they advanced. On the 21st, the swept aside a rebel force at Magawara just over the Ganges river, and paused in Unnao for rations, before pushing on to Bashirat Ganj for the night. A sixteen mile march on the 22nd took them to Bani, where they assaulted the bridge and fired an artillery salute to alert the defenders of the residency to their proximity.  

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