Day 11 - Kanpur

I went looking for a site of historical interest today and all I found was a cricket match. 

Foiled in my attempt to locate the memorial I was after, I sat and pondered my next move. As I was a bit tired, I pondered for quite a while. In time, I gathered quite a following and soon made friends with the club illuminati. It turned out that this was the final of a two day tournament, and I had arrived as the finalists were about the begin the first chukka. Several cups of chai and some Bombay mix later, I was formally invited to await the outcome of the match from the grandstand. 

I was seated alongside the great and the good and stayed there until a winner emerged. As medals and prizes were handed out, I clapped politely from my position of prominence and then it was time for the speeches. Last up was the Chairman of Selectors for Kanpur. He graciously addressed the crowd in English for my benefit. As he closed, he uttered the immortal sentence 'and now for a few words from our honoured guest, Mr. Neil'. Cue rapturous applause and 50 pairs of eyes turned in my direction. 

I was in truth, caught a little on the hop. Sitting in my natural space, side by side with the sporting and administrative greats of Kanpur didn't faze me much. Offering an Englishman's perspective of why cricket is so important and how it can shape a young mans future, ought to be something one dedicates a bit of preparation to. 

I was however, brilliant. Concise, pithy, bags of pathos, and even a bit about 'hands across the ocean' and how cricket is 'a game without borders' etc etc. None of my usual waffle I'm glad to report. More applause, thunderous this time, and I think I even caught sight of a tear or two from those who found it all too much. I stayed for a good fifteen minutes afterwards for pictures and handshakes. I made sure everyone had a pic that wanted one (all of them - twice) and enough material to hang on their bedroom wall, before promising to write and finally taking my leave. 

They were a lovely lovely bunch and made me feel very welcome and genuinely included. I like cricket now and I like Kanpur too. 

The memorial hunt continues tomorrow. 

Accommodation: Glorious. A very fine 2 star with wifi, running hot water and western loo. 

Food: Hot hot hot!

Walking: 75 miles over 4 days I think. I can’t be bothered to do the exact tally. I need a rest. 

My first sight today of the mighty Ganges. 

The stars of tomorrow 

The VIP box

HISTORICAL NOTE:

Relief forces so desperately needed by General Wheeler at Kanpur, simply didn't exist. A smattering of Sikhs and Europeans, plus the 13th Irregular Cavalry Regiment and the 37th Native Infantry, under the command of the ageing Brigadier George Ponsenby was all there was to hand. Wheeler had to rely on the promised reinforcements by Canning from further afield. By the time these reinforcements could be assembled, Wheeler would already be lying dead on the backs of the Ganges. 

Colonel Neill's commanded the 1st Madras Fusiliers and was highly thought of. The Fusiliers had arrived in Calcutta as reinforcements from South India and made their way to Banaras (modern day Varanasi). with all haste. While Kanpur is the strategic centre point of northern India, Banaras is its geographical. A distance of nearly 500 miles from his point of departure. With news of Wheelers demise, came with it the plight of the female hostages in desperate need of rescue at Kanpur, and speed was critical. Upon his arrival, Neill found Banaras to be in a state of virtual anarchy and immediately sought to disarm the 37th, on the verge of revolt. The affair was mishandled, and a firefight broke out between the 37th and the rest of the assembled garrison. Chaos followed, and many of the Native troops from all regiments took the opportunity to revolt, taking their arms with them into the countryside, and not before several deaths on both sides. Eventually, calm was restored and Banaras for the moment, remained in British control. On the 9th June, Neill set out for Allahabad. His journey there was not without incident, and no doubt fired up by the powder keg atmosphere in Banaras, Neill set about decimating every sign of dissension along the way. Mallenson presents a heroic picture of Neill in typical Victorian fashion. My other sources imply a harshness that counters Mallenson's admiration. 

Having reached Allahabad and causing more destruction, on the 30th June (my sources disagree on dates but I'll continue with Mallenson's account), he dispatched 300 Sikhs and 400 Europeans as an advance column in the direction of Kanpur under the command of Major Renaud. 

Major Sydenham Renaud set out on 9th July. Renaud was a student of his master, and not a man who put a lot of store in 'hearts over minds' warfare it seems. He marched through villages hanging as he went. Times correspondent William Russell recorded, 'a batch of twelve men were executed because their faces were turned the wrong way when they were met on the march'. Renaud hung bodies a foot from the ground to provide food for pigs it is said. Still, progress was made, and Renaud made camp within striking distance of Fatepur to await further orders.