Cows. The problem with making cows ‘holy’ and leaving them to do what cows do without proper husbandry, is that given enough time, you end up with a lot of cows. Not that I mind terribly. I mean they don’t cause me a lot of grief, but wandering cows only add to an already chaotic and shaky infrastructure, and there are a lot of wandering cows. I have taken the time to photograph some cows, just in case anyone doesn't know what they look like, and I can honestly say, I have never seen so many cows lowing (I only know that cows low - I don’t really know what else they do) than I have in India. What I do know, is that McDonalds don’t make use of them, on religious grounds. I know this, because I had a McDonalds last night. I had a Maharaja Mac, which is chicken based rather than beef, and fries. The fries were fine, but the M Mac had pickles in them that turned out to be chilies, that blew my flipping brains out. I have never not finished a Mcd’s, not ever. Last night, i emptied my half full tray into the bin, hungry as I was, on the basis that my McDonalds was far too spicy for me to finish. I NEVER thought I’d be girly enough to say THAT in - my - life. Right now, I would honestly happily slaughter a cow and roast it in the street for the sake of a decent steak and sod the blasphemy. Please dear Ganesh tell me my blog isn’t being read in India?
I'm in a roadside stop for the night and with some shaky wifi have discovered that there has been a terrible train crash around Kanpur killing at least 96 people. I suppose those who think this trip is a bad idea aren't likely to be reassured by this news, although I hope my Facebook post saying that 'I'm fine' went some way to doing so. What they didn't see was the guy who got taken out by a motorcycle about 5 yards in front of me on the other side today. I mean, really taken out. Like a bowling pin. And that's why I walk in the wrong side of the road facing traffic people!
I want to do the Lucknow walk in two days. Another night in a shack with mosquitoes is about all I can bear. My skin is beginning to take on the texture of a novelty condom. so I took a bus to Unnao (just the other side of the Ganges from Kanpur) and started from there today. It saved me 12km or so and you don't get much out of walking the suburbs of an Indian city anyway. I'll probably get close to Lucknow and see if I can catch a ride in or something tomorrow. That should mean I get the roadwalk I want and do it in two reasonable hops of 17 or so miles each. Today was about that, and frankly, my shoulder is killing me. My feet, tho tired and blistered, aren't too bad, but straining my shoulder meant my chai stops today were becoming more frequent. If tomorrow IS my last day of walking, I won't feel too bad about any of it.
Roadside monkey business.
Some cows.
HISTORICAL NOTE:
Havelock closed the Kanpur campaign with 1100 men. With 227 additional offered up be Neill, it was a small number to contemplate the relief of Lucknow, however if he were to save Sir Henry Lawrence and the other occupants of the residency, he knew he must try.
Sir Henry meanwhile, recognising his vast perimeter and paucity of manpower had tightened his belt. A reworking of the defences had resulted in a number of strongpoints with lightly garrisoned connecting works.
As soon as the residency had been sealed, rebel musketry, roundshot and matchlock fire upon it commenced and continued without pause. Sir Henry had moved his command post from an exposed and dangerous position to one of supposed safety on the second day of the siege. While conducting a meeting with subordinates, a rebel howitzer shell entered his place of refuge, exploded, and wounded him fatally. Sir Henry Lawrence lingered but died on the 4th July.
The compound continued to suffer from the effects of rebel fire and loss of both life and property mounted. Lawrence's nephew, George, gained the Victoria Cross on the 7th for a sortie of great daring and there are numerous recorded acts of gallantry in addition to his. On the 20th July. The rebels made their first grand assault, which was beaten back, but if another massacre were to be avoided, Havelock would have to hurry. Leaving Neill to garrison Kanpur, Havelock crossed the Ganges with the intention of relieving Lucknow, on the 25th July.
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