A few words on conditions/life for your average Indian chappy or chappese. ...I was going to go on about poverty in India but there really wouldn't be anything revelatory in that, we've all seen it on the tv. The only thing I CAN say, is that it's difficult to see it in person. If anyone has seen or read about how the slums of London for Manchester were in the c.19th, that would be a good start. People start in debt and never really get out of it seemingly. Have a bad day and you've had your chips. Rag picking is a common sight which is upsetting, especially when they are young. And they work long hours for just a few rupees. Ok, that's enough. Just remember how lucky you are. 'I thank god I was born an Englishman' has the air of arrogance about it, and when originally said, I suspect it was arrogant. I'm happy today to repeat the phrase with a bit more humility and humanity.
On a lighter note, the colour of my wee has returned to 'within medical norms'. I've walked over 50 miles in 3 days. The more energetic among you may scoff, but it seems like quite a lot to me, especially as I haven't actually started the walking bit of my holiday yet. Let's call it last minute training.
I splurged on some crisps for dinner last night as I'm now flush ...I'm going to have to try some actual food at some point aren't I? Don't rush me, I'm still warming up (and my stomach has contracted a bit recently).
Right! I have no idea if the historical bit is worth the effort but I'M interested in it, so you'll have to play along. I've said a bit about Delhi and I'm on to Agra next, Agra is the next bit of the story.
The Jal Mahal Palace do-dah-whatnot, Jaipur, in the middle of a lake. Quite quite lovely actually.
HISTORICAL NOTE:
British forces in India formed by far the smaller part of the Bengal Army.
Only 5 British regiments were available to Lord Canning across the whole north of India at the time of the uprising, and they were all employed managing the areas immediately around their station. No British forces were on hand to launch an expedition against a supposedly loyal and numerous Native army. Native regiments were officered by the British, now mostly dead, and there were a number of artillery, engineers, irregular cavalry and the like acting as attached units to main bodies. Canning was forced to send for reinforcements from the south of India and the Empire at large. He simply didn't have enough to quash a wide scale uprising and it would all take time.
Enough units were eventually assembled at Simla, north of Delhi, to march and hopefully retake the city. Elsewhere, British and Europeans hunkered down and waited.
In Agra, the situation at first seemed secure enough. A large and important garrison town, it held one of those few regiments, referred to above, the 3rd Europeans. It had an imposing fort to defend and stores aplenty. Europeans gravitated towards Agra as a safe haven, and began arriving in dribs and drabs with tales of roadside murder and lucky escapes.
What Agra lacked, was effective military leadership. Despite having sufficient numbers and expertise to harry those rebels close enough and cause significant damage to the rebel cause, Agra's defenders sat out the conflict until external pressure and honour forced their hand. By the time they finally sallied, rebel numbers were concentrated and too great. An open field battle with too few numbers against entrenched mutineers, caused a deadly debacle which resulted in retreat to the fortress with heavy British losses. Brigadier Polwhele left the field with his already damaged reputation in tatters. Agra remained relatively safe but almost entirely impotent until it could be relieved from either Calcutta, or Delhi.
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