The Indian Mutiny: Day 18

I’ve come to the end of my time tracing the steps of The Indian Mutiny. I’ve made my way along the major relief effort roads as best I can. I’ve used an aeroplane and train, a bus, a truck, some tuk tuk’s, a rickshaw, and been on the back of a few motorbikes (one of which was a Royal Enfield). I’ve also walked more than I ever have before, and covered some daily distances on foot with a backpack, that I didn’t think I’d be able to. I’ve felt mostly safe, but there have been a few moments when the traffic got the heart racing a bit faster. I’ve slept in some godawful hovels but avoided sleeping in the open at least. So it hasn’t always been comfortable. I’ve had days where I’ve only had 50p in my pocket. I haven’t always known where I was going, and I’ve been ripped off and offered the kindness normally reserved for royalty in roughly equal measure. And that’s what it’s all about isn’t it? To challenge oneself and all that. Bah! This blog isn’t about being all worthy and suchlike. It was my choice, and I’m glad I did what I did. It wouldn’t be for everyone but I got something out of discomfort, and experiencing an India that few other tourists get to see. If you want to do something similar, I heartily recommend it. A little suffering can be good for the soul. I've also seen how generous and welcoming people can be too. Where that has been the case, I honestly don't believe i would have felt that was quite as genuine if I'd paid through the nose for the privilege. I never wanted a false smile on the promise of a hefty tip, I wanted real India, and I got it. If you want to pay to be taken around in an air conditioned 4x4 by a guide, go for it. It’s all the same to me.

I’m leaving Lucknow in the morning for an engagement elsewhere. I might come back to this blog for some more touristy stuff when I’ve had a week or so of cocktails and sun loungers (my holidays aren’t exclusively shit and bullets you know). So if you’re dedicated enough, do check back. If you’ve had enough, thanks for sticking with it. Whatever the case, do spare a thought for the reason behind my chosen route. Thousands of Indians died in their first war of independence. Thousands British Empire troops, civilians, loyal Sikhs, and loyal Sepoys for that matter, died for a cause they believed in too. It’s a sad thing, and if via this blog I’ve shone a light on these largely forgotten victims of war, then I'll take that. ‘Only the dead have seen the end of war’ - Plato.

HISTORICAL NOTE:

Final acts - Agra relief. I jumped ahead in the timeline to wrap up the Delhi action as I was leaving the area heading East. Now that we've caught up with events elsewhere and the dates make some better sense, it's about time we revisited the shattered pride of British arms in that region.

When Wilson sent a corps of 2790 men off to recover the ground between Delhi and Agra on 24th September, he did so knowing that retribution would be meted out on those found or suspected of treasonous action. It should not be forgotten that for all of the atrocities committed by the mutineers, the British were as rigorous in their application of field justice.

The sight of a European female skeleton, beheaded and displayed on the roadside is one of several examples offered by Mallenson, but he chooses to gloss over the consequences endured by the local population for apparently endorsing the act of barbarity. That said, Mallenson pointedly talks in muted tones about the defenders of Agra and their less than stout rebuttals of occasional rebel cunning and trickery. I'd go further and say all I can really see is a frightened garrison being whittled away by clever tactical rebel manoeuvres. Notwithstanding, Delhi relief forces closed in on Agra and delivered a decisive victory against rebel Sepoys on the 11th October, relieved Agra, and had enough to spare to send to Sir Colin Campbell to reinforce the relief of Lucknow.

The Indian Mutiny of 1857 was not confined to the area I have walked. It was however a mostly northern Indian affair. Other actions, uprisings, and brutal atrocities were committed in the conflict but India is a large place and I only have one pair of legs. I'm glad I've covered the iconic ground as I see it. It has served to illustrate how horrible one human being can behave towards another, and how brave and unselfish people can be when dedicated to a cause or defending others. That by they way, is a commentary which is not nation specific. I guess sometimes people just get to the end of their tether and see no other way. There's no getting away from it though, some of the acts of violence in the mutiny are quite appalling and genuinely barbarous.

I can't guess at how Mr Mahatma Gandhi reached the conclusion that nonviolent resistance would achieve his political goals, but his passive approach got results nonetheless. True, he wouldn't have been much good in a fistfight anyway, but that's not to say he didn't possess bags of courage.

I'm sorry that I have not included more accounts from the Indian side. My sources simply didn't care enough about that to recount any tales of daring from them. That's not the same as saying there weren't any. Nana Sahib is clearly remembered very differently in India from the way my sources and I have portrayed him for example. There is a small section in one source that talks of the devilish sniping from an African in the mutineers service, who eventually gets his comeuppance when he's blown up by brave Tommy Atkins, but that's about it. You'll have to go and seek out an Indian blogger if you want those stories I'm afraid.

Of British notables, Mowbray Thompson eventually received a knighthood and died a General, Sir Colin Campbell became Lord Clyde, and a little known Lt Frederick Sleigh Roberts VC who played a significant but overall minor role in the campaign, became Field Marshal Roberts the most celebrated soldier of the Victorian age, alongside Captain, later Field Marshal Garnet Wolseley, mentioned previously in these posts.

Sadly, when independence finally came and the British left in 1947, millions died in the partitioning of India and creation of Pakistan and Bangladesh. I imagine Mr. Gandhi was a bit annoyed by that, but that's for a different blog.

When Havelock retreated back to Kanpur the first time and asked for 1000 reinforcements before effecting the relief of Lucknow, I noted that Neill poured scorn on his action. 'I deeply regret that you have fallen back one foot. The effect on our prestige is very bad' '....return here sharp, for the us much to do'. From the junior of the two officers, this is a remarkably insubordinate missive. I always rather enjoy Victorian language for its restraint, yet pointedness. Havelock's reply illustrates why I have some admiration for their ability to remain civil, yet get their message across clearly; 'I .....will not receive any advice from an officer under my command, be his experience what it may. Understand this distinctly; and that a consideration of the obstruction that would arise to the public service at this moment alone prevents me from taking the stronger step of placing you under arrest. You now stand warned.'

Now that is the way to deliver a proper telling off. Much more dignified than the modern but admittedly more concise, 'oh please will you just FUCK OFF YOU INSUFFERABLE PRICK!'

For anyone wondering if I got the balls for the local cuisine in the end, here's my highly potent curry breakfast from yesterday.