In a fit of annoyance at running low on funds again and having stood in a foreigners queue for an hour only to be told they'd run out of cash at the bank desk, I stopped off at the Agra Radisson to drown my sorrows. First beer of the hols and boy was it good. My credit card melted when the bill had to be paid, but it was worth every penny.
The most noteworthy news of the day is that I saw the Taj Mahal. In truth, I couldn't be arsed to actually go in - which is a bit daft as I'm in Agra for the Taj Mahal - but it was a rip off to get in (£12 which is a kings ransom in India) and I just decided on the spot that I didn't want to join 5000 other people for just one more iconic piccie. It felt at odds with my general principles of travel, to join the tourist conveyor belt. Plus, being able to buy water tomorrow is probably a better investment. I'll stick the Taj Mahal on the list alongside the Uffizi and Stonehenge. If you've seen them, then you get the gist. You don't need to touch the damn things to feel like you've 'done it'. Anyway, the Agra Fort was much more impressive.
If the above sounds like I'm a bit miffed with India, then I've done a disservice. I've become comfortable with the place. I'm no more irritated than any other tourist to India right now. The currency issues are causing havoc and I've seen well to do ample bellied westerners going loco at their inability to buy plastic Taj Mahal replicas through lack of funds. My notes on the subject are mute by comparison.
Accommodation: well it wasn't the Radisson. Not by a long chalk.
Food: complimentary peanuts at the Radission.
Walking: a modest 13 miles today. Agra is very nearly literally, a shit tip.
Another 'red fort' they really do know how to fortify over here you know!
To adhere to the modern maxim 'no proof, didn't happen' here is the best shot of the TM that I have. Bollocks to anyone saying 'it's shit'. I'm having to live on water and peanuts over here .
HISTORICAL NOTE:
As I leave the Delhi and Agra behind for my journey eastwards, I should conclude the story of Delhi. By no means the end of the mutiny, but perhaps a clear sign that old John Bull wasn't about to give up its Asian cash cow without a fight.
General Barnard, the commander of the forces that had been assembled to retake the city, received reinforcements throughout the months following its fall. By the time he had encamped on its northern approaches, he faced a garrison of 40,000 sepoys* protected by British reinforced walls of sturdy construction.
On the 12th June, Barnard ordered an assault, which was delayed sufficiently for him to be carried off by cholera on 5th July and succeeded by General Reed. Reed's health failed on the 17th July leaving General Wilson holding the reins. Further reinforcements brought the besiegers numbers to 8748 effectives of whom 3317 were British. Finally, on the 8th September, fire commenced in earnest on Delhi. For five days artillery duelled, and on the morning of the 14th September, an attack on two practicable breaches ordered. Such affairs are always bloody. The British however managed to carry the walls with horrific loss of life and conspicuous gallantry on both sides. British casualties amounted to 1170 killed and wounded. Sepoy figures are not known. It took a further 5 days to recover Delhi and left Wilson with barely 3000 effectives to continue on to Agra and Kanpur.
*Mallensons figures
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